You ain’t going to make it

I’ve just found Blueboatman’s excellent thread of junk rigged Corribee and Coromandel advice for the Jester Challenge via Steve Hickey on the Jester Challenge mailing list.

This is a really useful list of failures and risks of the boat, and advice about what to do about them.  What’s great is that it corresponds very closely with that I’ve observed after two years with my Coromandel thinking about the Jester Challenge. I’ve only just found this thread, and it’s great to have some confirmation as well as a few things I’ve missed.



Filed under From Elsewhere

16 responses to “You ain’t going to make it

  1. Antoine Maartens

    1. The mast foot really needs to sit in a solid wooden socket glassed and bolted to the hull/liner.The standard throughbolt and s/steel bracket flexes and fatigues..
    2.The mast aperture hatch through the cabintop should really be glassed to the cabintop and glass be laid over all nuts and bolts-flexure at sea exceeds the waterproofing properties of the standard silicone bedding.
    3.If you break a tiller,it is as well to have already made a 40mm hole through the aft edge of the rudder,A lashing can then be quickly rigged to regain control.
    4.The standard wooden battens are subject to stress fractures.Carry spares made from something like douglas fir which is stress crack resistant.At a pinch pvc waterpipe works well as a batten too.
    5.Similarly a stout sculling oar can double up as a spare yard for the sail.
    6.In calm conditions with a swell running the sail will beat itself to pieces as the rig jars back and forth….and battens will fracture.The solution is to lower the sail and hoist a triangular stormsail with a continuous lashing around the mast..Ditto in bad weather of course or whilst repairing the main sail.
    7.The cockpit holds a lot of water when flooded -And it drains very slowly..Better to cover it in part or wholly with plywood,lashed down.This creates an enormoud storage area for dinghy,water jugs,juice cartons etc .The boat will carry 200l of liquids fine.
    8. Well worth reinforcing the standard companionway hatch with channels of alloy or stainless steel let into the exisiting wood trim. 18mm plywood wash boards can now be fitted and these should rally be tied(tethered) to the boat at all times…
    9.The alloy stemhead fitting is pretty weak.Replacement with a s/steel and additional glass underneath will greatly improve security for anchoring,lying to a drogue or being offered a tow.
    10.Compartmentalising and glassing each storage compartment beneath the bunks,right up to bunk height, will improve ones chances of quickly locating and sealing any leak or breach of the hull.And a sponge in the bottom of each will indicate and absorb small deck leaks.
    11.The aft deck hatch really needs 2 or 4 ubolts and lashings across it to secure it at sea.
    12.A hatch garage will keep a lot of water out of the cabin…
    13.The stainless steel yard bracket that attaches the main halliard is not man enough for the job-if it fails you will be left with the halliard stuck at the mast top.Replace with something using 10mm stainless bar instead of 4mm,and increase the welding area. It is good to put a lashing from the halliard block around the yard itself so that if the fitting does fail,you can retrieve the halliard.
    14.The standard halliard double blocks are in my opinion better replaced with bigger,roller bearing double blocks set ‘over’ rather than side by side.There will be less chaff of the block cheek walls.And up the halliard size from 10 to 12mm.
    15.And it is worth wrapping leather around the top 6 inches of the mast to protect it too against chaff.
    16.The battens,yard and boom can be wrapped in soft rope for perhaps 2 feet in length where they come in to contact with the mast-chaff,friction and noise reduction.
    ………Er thats it. All the stuff I have described I did,or was forced to do before or during sailing. With good detail any small boat should arrive at the end of such a trip in better condition than when it started, so there! Good luck guys.

    Well – I think there is a good match between this and what we discussed so far. Let’s ask Roger Taylor what he thinks of this list. He knows a thing or two about Corribee’s off-shore.

    What do you think?

    • I think I need to get planning!

      • Antoine Maartens

        I think you and your dad will fix this in time. Most of it is really not that complicated to address. BUT: better get going before it gets too cold.

        • Dad is a gold mine of engineering advice and workshop skills, and does lend a hand, but I do all the fixing. And I promised to help him clear up his workshop this winter too!

        • Antoine Maartens

          Teamwork – you just can’t beat it.

  2. Steve interesting

    Excellent advice I think! Interesting comments about weight forward by someone else too.
    I’d be inclined to go for the MingMing belt and braces approach to the main hatch myself.

    • While I greatly respect Roger Taylor’s choices for Mingming, he was setting her up for arctic voyages without landfalls, and I have somewhat different priorities. In general I don’t want to make major modifications to the hull or deck structure. The hatch does need more strength, but I think this can be achieved by beefing up the runners and hatch, rather than by turning Tammy into a “padded cell for a sea troglodyte” (Roger’s self-deprecating words). For each modification he made, I’m thinking about why he made it, and then seeing how that works with my own goals.

      • Antoine Maartens

        The insulation, the hatch, getting out of the wheather, making sure you cannot sink – it all makes perfect sense to me. The hinges on the aft deck are a joke. But nothing that can’t be fixed in about eight to ten long effective weekends. I would focus on points 7 upto and including 12. These will give you most safety even when dismasted and floating around like an incapacitated duck.

        • I fixed the hinges in Harlingen. Details will appear.

        • Antoine Maartens

          Please – they are fairly high on my list now.

        • Quick version: remove old hinges (warning: captured nuts). Cut ply strips to go inside locker fronts and rest on lip, making lids snug. Drill and screw them using existing holes for shelf fronts. Mark positions for new hinges. Drill holes. Make tapped aluminium backing plates for hinges (no need for nuts and washers). Screw together. Drink tea. Result: smoothly opening non rattling lockers. Next: treat cover glue glass or replace the wood padding. Some pics in Flickr album “Netherlands Cruise 2015”. Video to come. Typing on iPhone on train.

  3. Antoine Maartens

    Just saw on Roger Taylor’s site that he patched up MingMing (The Original) in ten long days. You’ll do fine, it’ll work out before may.

  4. Antoine Maartens

    Check out this film of Yacht Teleport – some more ideas that could fit in our boats towards the end – check from here:

    Yacht is for sale actually.
    Currently @ Canada – west coast that is.

    • They’re selling Teleport? That’s a surprise. But I suppose they achieved their goal of sailing the NW passage and are moving on to other things. I loved their video series.

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